February 13, 2012
By Neil D… Photos by Ed W, Karen J, Gunda M, Steve M, Jim R, Jack M
Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike EW
A good size group gathered in light rain for the trip to the Elwha. As the forecast had promised, the rain abated and patches of blue appeared as we drove west. The road to the Whiskey Bend Trailhead had been closed for a several months and we were glad to again have access to the many trails that jump off from there. We passed the large slide that had been extensively repaired, and then were surprised to encounter orange barriers crowding our vehicles to the cut bank to avoid a new slide eating at the roadbed. It looked like another problem was developing for the Whiskey Bend access.
At the trailhead some handsome new signs provided lots of information and maps showing the various hiking routes available. A consensus was reached identifying the suspension bridge on the Dodger Point Trail as the far goal for the day, then a looping return down along the river to Goblins Gate. There was some indecision about which fork to take at Michael’s Cabin (had we been away that long?) but recollections returned and the right fork was taken which proved to be the right fork. (Unfortunately, some of our group missed the arrow marker and ended high and dry at Lillian River Camp.) A couple of forest denizens posed for pictures, hardly responding to the humans marching up the trail a few yards away.
Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike EW
It was clear from the start it would be a muddy trek but the lead group managed to take the muddiness to a new level. Their first effort took them off trail, climbing through the forest high above the big slide that lies a quarter mile or so below the suspension bridge. Next it was across the bridge and down the steep far bank of the river to gain a sunny spot for lunch. Apparently energized after taking on fuel they scampered back up, across the bridge, and then were led (was that really Steve’s idea?) back down a muddy slide to the river and onto the broad, rock and log strewn flood plain.
Some from our group stopped for lunch at Hume’s Ranch; some at Lillian River Camp; three of us opted out of the bridge crossing and had a leisurely lunch in full sun in the middle of the flood plain at the edge of the rushing river. Regrouping after lunch, we began the hike down-river. Passing through a wide clearing thick with grass, Gunda discovered a set of elk antlers. One antler had already been partially eaten by rodents which apparently feast on them for the calcium. The antlers, which male elk lose every spring, were left to provide continuity in the local food chain.
Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike ND
From here we climbed out of the flood plain on a short steep trail that brought us to the Hume’s Ranch Cabin. Inside we found new signage which gave some of the history of the New Yorkers who had homesteaded the place. Both Hume’s Ranch Cabin and Michael’s Cabin have been rehabilitated in the past couple of years and are in good condition.
A good trail follows the river bank, closely sometimes, for perhaps two miles, terminating at Goblins Gate. And what a fascinating hydraulic/geologic happening it is. The wild river, which has its way on the broad flood plain above, is instantly tamed at the narrow “gate” and forced into a long, narrow, gorge. The raging torrent is no match for the angry blue-gray columns that march it on its way.
It is a long, steep climb from the river to the intersection of the Goblins Gate Trail with the main trail. But the climb seems a small price to pay for a look at another fantastic Olympic creation.
Happy hiking, Neil
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike SM
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike JM
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike JR
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike KJ
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike KJ
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike GM
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike EW
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike EW
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike KJ
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike JR
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike EW
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike ND
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike SM
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike JR
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike ND
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike ND
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike SM
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- Elwha River and Goblins Gate hike EW
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